What should I do when larger waves come in as I'm paddling out?
In Beginner - Asked by Chewey
What you NEVER do is ditch your surfboard. The last thing you want is your surfboard to get away from you and injure a surfer behind you. If a large wave is getting ready to crash directly in front of you, then you have a couple of options. First, you can duck dive under the breaking lip. You will probably get rocked under the water, but you should use your surfboard as a personal flotation device. It will float, so hold on tightly. You can also perform a turtle roll if you're riding a bigger surfboard. Roll the board over so its bottom is now facing the sky. You will be under the surfboard holding on for dear life. With any luck the wave will go over you and maybe even push the surfboard right-side-up with you flopping on top. The last option would be to stay on your belly, face the beach and get ready for wild ride. We don't recommend turning your back on a breaking wave so please use discretion.