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« How To Wipe Out Properly
Once i was caught in the breaking wave, and it felt like being in a washing machine, after few seconds i didnt knew where was the up or down. I relaxed and reached surface quite quickly, but the same second as i stood up another wave hit me and the same happened. After surviving second wave i just jumped on my board and let waves to take me to shore. It was my mistake to go in the water when i was too tired (was surfing for about 4 hours). This is not dangerous if you are surfing on 2-3 feet waves and if conditions are clean, but that day was really nasty, onshore wind and big waves. It was really scary, but when i think about it now - it is unlikely that you will be underwater for more than 20 seconds and Im sure most of people could do about a minute without blacking out, so the important thing is to not panic.
jamie karrigan says:
This article is so awesome. I printed it all out and I took it out on the water in the little pocket in my boardshorts. Before I started my session I took it out and memorized it all. I went for as many wipeouts as possible, and the article was right every single time. It is truly amazing. In one wipeout, for example, I just relaxed. And I totally forgot to get to the surface. I almost drowned. Amazing article!
Rudolf Koob says:
I was at newport beach one morning and got caught out. Couldnt get over a wave in time or far enough in front. All i could do was lay there and take it. 6 footer crashed right on the back of my knees. Board popped up, split my chin open, dived under, got my feet caught by the wave, ended up getting my face dragged in the sand. Came up and got crashed by another wave and pinned under. Came up bloody and dizzy. But i lived. Stay calm and realize it wont last forever, it just feels like it.
Yesterday I was surfing some 4-7 foot waves at the sunset time, after a couple of hours there was only a little moonlight over the sea and I stayed surfing alone. Suddenly I wiped out of a wave that apeared too close to the beach... I fell head first (in a 2-foot deep water) and almost broke my neck, the pain was horrible, I broke one of my teeth cause of the impact... nobody was watching me and I almost went blackout, fortunately I made my way out to the sand without fainting. Thanks for the article!
Stromrider Bali says:
Surfing over sharp reef? Do the starfish!
Jerry the SRF says:
"Wipeout" was by the Surfaris, not the Beach Boys. But great article and pictures!
Mario Rodriguez says:
Super heavy wipe out bruh! Waves about 11 to 13 feet high. I tried to ride a wave without my board, I did, until I was at the tip the I fell head first and the wave literally crushed me in half dude. I hit my head twisted my arm, swallowed water, every worse scenario you can think of, but didnt break anything luckily. The wave gods made me a humbler surfer that day. Respect.
Thanks for the advice. This will most likely come in handy right away. Got my first surfing lesson today!
Beginner: caught a wave crashed and the nose cut my eyebrow! That lead me to this article, awesome advice thanks! ;) back out tomorrow
I was in bali and it was my first time surfing. First 3 days i was good when using long board. The 4th day i tried use short board. I eat more than i can chew. I could balance using short board. Fell from 7 feet waves on head first. I felt like i broke my backbone (luckily it wasnt the case). I got up but when i turn back, another 6 feet waves comes by. Felt like in washing machine. The 2nd time the waves hit me, i thought i can just swim under the waves but i was wrong. 4 times got hit by big waves and i almost drown. When im almost out of breath i got up and ran to the shore (i was lucky got wash up near the shores). I was blank for 10 minutes. I couldnt think of anything for 10 minutes. But i was lucky nothing hurt only my back. Couldnt surf for the next day. But after 48 hours i can still surf (at white waves). But surfing is my passion now. And i will do it again but thax to this articles, now i know wat to do. See u again Bali october 2015
Thanks for the advice. I had a bad nose dive abd fell head first on a reasonable 5 feet wave earlier today. Went washing machine style and smacked my head on the bottom sand... Pain and dizziness joined a loud crack. Can barely move it now, at least this gives time to read about proper wipe out :)
I recently wiped out on a shore break. I let go of the board and pearled over. My board came back down on me and smacked me behind my left ear. It was a pretty good hit that got me dazed and I had to lay out on the sand for a bit. There was a cut. The left side of my ear still feels as if I went up to high altitude and did not pop.
If anyone is going out with a beginner, with long hair: Tell them to put it back, at least the part around the face.
The worst thing when you get to the surface after a washer-mashine is if your wet hair forms a blanket over your face and stops you from taking the first belonged breath. (Its exactly like when they fake-drown people in movies to make them confess.. not nice).
Chico Powers says:
Oh mans, Chico mans trying to do a wipeit mans and falling to the skies mans luckily landing butt first mans, but landing on a sharks mans! Chico needing an operation for the ears after that ones mans.
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